ETIQUETTE OF BRIDGE
The following rules belong to the established Etiquette of Bridge.
They are not called laws, as it is difficult--in some cases
impossible-- to apply any penalty to their infraction, and the only
remedy is to cease to play with players who habitually disregard
them.
It is to be borne in mind that, from the nature of the conditions
under which the game is played, acts may be so done, and words
so spoken, as to convey a very distinct intimation to a partner. To
do so is to offend against the most important of the proprieties of
the game.
Declarations ought to be made in a simple manner--e. g., by
saying, "I make hearts trumps"; "There are no trumps"; or, "I leave
it to you." There ought to be neither intimation of doubt in, or
reason for, making this declaration. Nothing ought to be done or
said by the declarent which may afford an indication or intimation
of the hand which he holds, or draws attention to the state of the
score.
A player should avoid any unnecessary hesitation in passing the
trump declaration to his partner, or giving any well-marked
indication of doubt or perplexity.
Similarly, a player who has the first right of doubling or
redoubling, on behalf of a partnership, ought not to decline to
exercise that right, and so pass it to his partner, after any
unnecessary hesitation, or after giving any well-marked indication
of doubt or perplexity.
Any one, having the lead and one or more winning cards to play,
should not draw a second card out of his hand until his partner has
played to the first trick, such act being a distinct intimation that the
former has played a winning card.
A player who has looked at his cards ought not to give any
indication by word or gesture as to the nature of his hand, or call
the attention of his partner to the score of the game.
A player who desires the cards to be placed, should do it for his
own information only, and not in order to invite the attention of his
partner.
No player should object to refer to a bystander, who professes
himself uninterested in the game and able to decide, a disputed
question of facts; as to who played any particular card--whether
honors were claimed though not scored, or vice versa--etc., etc.
it is unfair to revoke purposely; having made a revoke, a player is
not justiñed in making a second in order to conceal the first.

HINTS TO BEGINNERS
THE DECLARATION
Two kinds of hands are especially adapted for "no trumps"--those
with one very strong suit, and those with protection in every suit.
Declare "No Trumps":
With an established black suit of six or more cards, and a king
guarded in another suit.
With an established suit, without protection in another suit, if the
state of the score is desperate--~-e. g., with a score of 28 to 0, and
a game up in favor of the adversaries.
With three aces or equivalent strength (an ace being considered
equal to a king and queen together), with three suits guarded,
unless able to make a strong heart declaration or very strong
diamond (six with two honors).
With protection in every suit and a king more than one's fair
share of honors--i. e., one of each kind.
Always with four aces; but do not sacrifice four honors in hearts to
anything less, and seldom sacrifice four honors in diamonds.
Hands containing two long suits are especially strong in a suit
declaration.
If the hand is of average strength as regards high cards--c. g., with
ace, king, queen, knave, ten, one of each kind, generally declare--
Hearts: With six; with five, including two honors; or four, all
honors.
Diamonds; With six; five, including three honors; or four, all
honors.
Clubs: With seven, including three honors; or five, with four
honors.
Spades: Practically never.
With increased all-round strength the player may declare hearts
more readily (with five and one honor), but should be more chary
of declaring clubs; diamond declarations are almost independent
of the general strength of the hand.
With weak hands, such as with one king only and no other card of
value, a defensive declaration of five cards in a black suit can be
made.
With nothing of value in the hand, a suit of two spades may be
declared; but four clubs, five diamonds, or six hearts would
probably prove less expensive.
At advanced states of the score any black suit which gives a goo~I
chance of winning the game may be declared.
With one's score at twenty-eight, any suit of five cards may be
declared as giving a better chance of the odd trick than a pass.

PASSED DECLARATIONS
The dealer's partner should generally declare "no trumps" when
he would have done so as dealer, unless there is another good
declaration possible; occasionally he may declare with less
strength when the only alternative is spades.
Remember that unguarded high cards have little value when they
are exposed.
With a hand of nearly "no trump" strength, the best suit can be
chosen, even though it consists of four cards only.
With an average hand, the best suit can be chosen if it contains
five cards; otherwise a black suit must be declared--spades if both
are poor.
With weaker hands, the player may be driven to declare a short
suit of spades; but he should nearly always prefer clubs if he can
thus obtain two more trumps. With however weak a hand, a suit of
six cards should be chosen in preference to a short suit of spades.

DOUBLING AND RE-DOUBLING
Compare the strength of your hand with that which would justify
an original dedaration. If your hand is stronger than this, either by
two extra trumps or two extra aces, you may double; or with one
extra, if you are to the left of the strong hand.
You may double a spade declaration with five trumps and an
otherwise average hand; a spade declaration by the dealer may be
doubled with somewhat less strength.
It is safer to double on strength in trumps than on all-round
strength.
Double rather more freely when you wish trumps to be led, and
also in states of the score when the doubled value will lessen the
number of tricks required to give you the game, but will not assist
the adversaries.
Doubling by the leader's partner against a "no trump" declaration
indicates that the player has a very strong suit which he wishes to
be led. In response, the leader will lead his weakest suit as the one
most likely to be his partner's strongest. In some circles a heart is
led. The player should ascertain the convention followed before
sitting down to play.
In order to re-double, the player should have a very strong hand--
nearly two tricks stronger than for doubling.

THE PLAY OF THE HAND
Dummy's hand should be carefully examined immediately it is
exposed, by all the players, especially the dealer. Many mistakes
are made through playing too hurriedly to the first trick, before the
position suddenly brought to view is fully realized. The plan of
campaign for the hand must be formed at once and adhered to,
unless the cards lie more unfavorably than expected.
When the original scheme is seen to be impossible, it is the mark
of a good player to change the tactics promptly, and make the best
of the situation.

WITH NO TRUMPS
The main object of each side is to establish a long suit. Usually the
adversaries will endeavor to bring in the suit first opened. The
player with the long suit will generally keep every card of it. It is
his partner's duty to assist him as much as possible by returning
the suit as often as he can, and keeping guards to the dealer's
suits. When the suit first opened is abandoned, the object will
usually be to bring in the long suit of the original third player, and
the positions of the partners will be reversed. The chance of saving
the game depends on their cooperation.
Generally lead and return your highest card of a suit which you are
endeavoring to establish for your partner; but should you hold five
or more cards in the suit opened by your partner, it is likely that
you are longer in the suit than he, and you should return your
lowest, unless you hold the best card or a sequence of high cards.
The dealer will generally choose the longest suit in the two hands;
but he must pay attention to the difficulty of establishing it, which
depends on the number and size of the cards held by the
adversaries. It is useless to establish a suit in a hand that is too
weak in cards of re-entry.
Deep finesses can be made on both sides in the suit to be
established. It is not advantageous to win tricks early, but often the
reverse. It is often wise to hold up the winning card, both of one's
own suit and the adversary's, since being able to win the third
round of the suit often determines whether the suit shall be brought
in or not. Finesses should seldom be made in suits which neither
side is trying to establish.

WITH A SUIT DECLARED
The dealer's chief object is to prevent the adversaries making
tricks, by discarding his losing cards either to winning high cards
in his other hand or to an established suit, the latter course
rendering it necessary that trumps should be first led. The dealer
should endeavor to make tricks by tramping with the weaker hand,
if possible, before leading trumps; it is easier to do this when the
weaker hand is unseen. If there is no chance of making worthless
trumps by ruffing, it is generally wise to lead trumps even when
not holding strong hands.
The two chief objects of the dealer's adversaries are to make
tricks before the dealer can discard, and to play the cards to the
best advantage by leading through tenaces, and avoiding leading
from and up to tenaces. These objects are frequently inconsistent.
Early in the hand the greater attention must be paid to tenace play.
Avoid leading from a tenace; lead up to Dummy's weak suit, and
in a less degree through Dummy's strong suit, if the strength is
broken. When the establishment of a suit is threatened, disregard
the question of tenaces, and lead suits in which you are strong and
Dummy is weak. Do not hold on to a tenace too long. Tricks are
frequently lost when one player holds the ace, queen, and his
partner the king, knave, and each is afraid of leading into a tenace.
Be cautious of leading a suit in which Dummy is very short, early
in the hand. If Dummy is weak, he may make a trick by tramping;
if he is strong, he may get a discard. The suit must, however, be
led before Dummy has been able to discard from it.
Forcing the dealer involves loss of the lead, and should usually be
avoided. It can be done with advantage when the strong hand also
has the long suit that is to be feared.
If there is a chance of making tricks by rufflng, try to do so. A
singleton lead often gains tricks. A lead from a suit of three cards,
not containing a strong sequence, is the worst of all leads.
GENERAL ADVICE

Do not hesitate in making a declaration, so as to give information
as to your hand.
Do not take advantage of such information given by your partner.
Always bear the score in mind. Make certain of saving or winning
the game, if possible, by leading out winning cards if you see that
there is any danger of losing it.

BRIDGE WHIST LATEST ADOPTION
The Whist Club announced the official laws of auction bridge
which provide three major changes--equalization of honors,
limitation of revoke claim and revoke penalty.
The object of the rules is to define the correct procedure and to
provide for the situations which occur when a player through
carelessness gains an unintentional but nevertheless, unfair
advantage.
There was a general desire for the change in scoring, as the
calculation was difficult for those other than steady followers of
the game and the change equalizes all suits. In multiples of ten, no
one has a reason to complain of mathematical difficulties.

NEW HONOR SCORE
TRUMP HONOR
3 in one hand Count 30 points
1 in one hand, 2 in the other Count 30 points
3 in one hand, 1 in the other Count 40 points
2 in one hand, 2 in the other Count 40 points
3 in one hand, 2 in the other Count 50 points
4 in one hand, 0 fri the other Count 80 points
4 in one hand, 1 in the other Count 90 points
5 in one hand, 5 in the other Count 100 points

NO TRUMP HONOR
3 in one hand Count 30 points
2 in one hand, 1 in the other Count 30 points
in one hand, 1 in the other Count 40 points
2 in one hand, 2 in the other Count 40 points
4 in one hand Count 100 points

REVOKE PENALTY
The revoke penalty for either side is: Two tricks for its first revoke
and one trick for each subsequent revoke. These tricks are taken at
the end of the hand from the tricks of the revoking side and added
to the tricks of the other side. They count as if won in play and
may assist the declarer to make his contract or to go game; or may
assist adversaries to defeat the contract, in which case they carry
full bonus values. If they make the total twelve or thirteen tricks
for either side they carry the proper slain bonus.
If the contract be doubled or re-doubled they count at the doubled
or re-doubled value in the trick-score of the declarer, and they
carry their full bonus, if any, in the honor score of either side.
After surrendering these tricks the revoking side may score for its
remaining tricks, as it would if it had not revoked. If the revoking
side has not enough tricks to pay the penalty in full, the surrender
of all it has pays the penalty; if it has no tricks there is no revoke
penalty.
No revoke penalty may be claimed after the next cut; nor, if the
revoke occur during the last hand of the rubber after the score has
been agreed upon; nor, if there has been a draw for any purpose in
connection with the next rubber.

EXPOSED CARDS
During the play when two or more cards are led or played
simultaneously the offender many designate which one is led or
played, and the others are exposed, except any one so covered that
its face is completely concealed. A card dropped face upward on
the table, even if picked up so quickly that it cannot be named, a
card dropped elsewhere than on the table, if the partner sees its
face, and a card so held by a player that his partner sees any
portion of its face, are also exposed.
A card mentioned by either adversary as being in his own or in his
partner's hand is exposed and if an adversary who has played to
the twelfth trick shows his thirteenth card before his partner plays
his twelfth, the partner's two cards are exposed. If an adversary
throws his cards face up on the table, they are exposed, unless such
act follows a claim by declarer of a certain number, or the rest of
the tricks.
There is no penalty for a card exposed by declarer or dummy. A
card exposed by an adversary must be left face up on the table and
declarer may call it--i e., require its owner to lead or play it,
whenever it is the owner's turn to lead or play, unless playing it
would cause a revoke. Dedarer may not prohibit the lead or play of
an exposed card, and its owner may lead or play it whenever he
can legally do so, but until played declarer may call it any number
of times.